24 hours in Medellín, Colombia

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A model city for the whole of Latin America

​I can still remember seeing , as a child, images of tanks driving through the streets of Medellín and thinking that this must be just about the last place on earth you’d want to go. In 1993, Pablo Escobar was shot dead during an operation by the local police and the US DEA, bringing this era to an end. A lot has changed since then. In 1995, work began on a unique public transport system aimed at reducing the city’s heavy traffic and connecting the poorest suburbs to the city centre. Work began on the construction of elevated metro lines. Tram lines and cable cars were then connected to these metro lines, designed to link the hilly suburbs with the city centre. With the exception of a few sections, the entire transport network is now complete, and Medellín, with its public transport system, serves as a model for many cities in Latin America and beyond.

Comuna 13: murals, dance and local delicacies

Another unique and successful project I visited in Medellín was Comuna 13. In Escobar’s heyday, this was considered one of the city’s most notorious neighbourhoods. Following Escobar’s death, the neighbourhood was taken over by the FARC. For this guerrilla group, the neighbourhood was strategically located on the outskirts of the city, providing an ideal base from which to carry out their terrorist activities. It was not until 2010 that the government decided to rid the neighbourhood of the rebel forces through a large-scale military operation. To win over the local population, it was decided to organise various activities designed to contribute positively to the well-being of the neighbourhood’s residents. Among other things, workshops in singing, dancing and street art were launched. The latter can now be seen on almost every corner of the neighbourhood. Whereas until 2010 you really had to avoid Comuna 13, it is now considered a delightful neighbourhood, where you can stroll past the various murals and enjoy street musicians and dancers along the way. What’s more, on many street corners you’ll find lovely stalls where you can treat yourself to some delicious local delicacies.

Food Train cookery workshops

​In the afternoon, I visited the Via Cocina Food Train project run by Brian Johnston, a Canadian living in Medellín. Brian worked for years as an IT specialist in the banking sector, studied at an art college, trained as a chef and has now visited more than 70 countries. In Medellín, he is now working on what he calls his life’s work. He bought an old building which he is currently completely refurbishing. The house is already looking good and is partially operational. The building features a professional kitchen and boasts a cosy area with tables where guests can dine. ​

So much to see

After we’ve enjoyed a lovely meal, Brian takes me for a short walk through the city. He shows me some of the social initiatives that have recently been launched in his neighbourhood. We visit the modern Casa de la Memoria, which recounts the city’s turbulent recent history, without sparing any party. Admission to the museum is free, and in a short space of time you can discover, in an interactive way, everything that has happened in Medellín over the course of the last century and this one.

At the end of the day, we pay a visit to Botero Park, a city park in the heart of Medellín, which is home to 36 sculptures by Fernando Botero. Fernando Botero, a native of Medellín, is world-famous for his paintings, drawings and sculptures of plump, rounded figures. I’m spending the night in the trendy El Poblado district, home to the city’s best restaurants and hotels. I’ve had a brilliant time in Medellín, but there’s so much to see that I’ll definitely be coming back!