Lake Titicaca
I’m sitting on a rock, looking out over Lake Titicaca. The sun is almost setting and the last rays of sunlight are shining across the lake. The sky is clear, the lake glistens and is surrounded by some of the most imposing mountains in the Andes. All around me is an oasis of tranquillity. I don’t need much more than this.
What is Lake Titicaca?
Lake Titicaca is situated in the Andes at an altitude of 3,812 metres, making it the highest navigable lake in the world. It forms the natural border between Bolivia and Peru. The lake covers an area of 8,340 km² and is the largest lake in South America.
Of historical significance
Lake Titicaca is primarily known for its stunning surroundings. But Lake Titicaca is also hugely significant from a historical perspective. It is, in fact, the cradle of the Inca Empire. According to legend, the first Inca king, Manco Capac, was born on Isla del Sol, an island situated in the Bolivian part of Lake Titicaca. From here, he set off for the Sacred Valley to found a city there: Cuzco. It was from there that he would go on to rule his future empire. On the islets and along the shores of Lake Titicaca, you will find many small villages where the indigenous people still live in the traditional way.
The birth of the first Inca king, Manco Capac, is celebrated on 5 November
My visit to Lake Titicaca
In the afternoon, we arrive in Copacabana, the sacred village on the shores of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. The Virgin of Copacabana (La Virgen de la Candelaria) is the patron saint of the whole of Bolivia, and many miracles are attributed to her. The town should not be confused with the beach of the same name in Rio de Janeiro. Although the two do share a connection. It turns out that the famous beach is named after this village. According to legend, a grateful Brazilian fisherman, who was saved from a storm by the Virgin of Copacabana, named Copacabana beach after her.
The sunset
Copacabana isn’t exactly brimming with sights, but I think it’s a lovely little town. The varying heights of the streets and the large hill rising above the houses. From that hill, you get a great view of Lake Titicaca, and we’re told that the sunset is stunning. Naturally, we don’t need to be told twice and set off straight away. It’s quite a steep hill and a rather challenging climb when you’re already at an altitude of 3,800 metres. Once at the top, I’m speechless. My heart’s in my throat and I need a moment to catch my breath, but it’s the incredible view that leaves me speechless. We sit down on a rock and look out over the immense Lake Titicaca. The sun’s rays glisten across the lake and a sense of calm washes over me like a blanket. In silence, we watch the sunset.
By now, the walk has worked up our appetite, and back in the centre of Copacabana we find a lovely little restaurant where we order the local speciality: trout from Lake Titicaca. Accompanied by a Paceña beer – Bolivia’s pride and joy, brewed at an altitude of 3,600 metres using purified water from the Andes – we thoroughly enjoy our meal.
Out and about by bike
After a good night’s sleep, we want to see a bit more of the area around Lake Titicaca. We decide to hire bikes and cycle along the shores of the lake for a while. Although we’ve been travelling for a while now and know that nothing is quite as it seems, we once again fall into the trap of expectations. We should have realised that the bikes wouldn’t be in as good a condition as they are in the Netherlands. On top of that, every effort at an altitude of 3,800 metres takes twice as much energy, and you can imagine that it turned out to be a tough ride. Nevertheless, we enjoyed ourselves here too. The area around Lake Titicaca is stunning, and I wouldn’t have wanted to miss it for the world.
To Isla del Sol
The next day, we bid farewell to Copacabana and board a small boat bound for Isla del Sol, one of the many islands in Lake Titicaca. Isla del Sol is also known as the sacred Inca island. According to the Incas, this is where the founders of the Inca Empire, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, were born. The island lives up to its name, as the sun almost always shines here.
There are no cars on the island and life here is even quieter than at Copacabana. We go for a walk here and enjoy the surroundings. At the end of the afternoon, it’s rush hour as all the livestock is rounded up and brought in. Herds of sheep, pigs, donkeys, cows and llamas make their way along the narrow sandy paths towards the stables. All this is led by petite women wearing bowler hats and traditional dress.
As well as exploring the surrounding area on foot, there is still much to see on Isla del Sol that dates back to the Inca civilisation. For example, you can visit the Pilcocaina Sun Temple and the sacred spring. The sacred water is said to grant eternal youth and a life full of happiness. Now that we’re here anyway, it’s worth giving it a go, isn’t it?
The crossing to Lake Titicaca in Peru
In the afternoon, we leave Isla del Sol and return to the mainland. From here, we cross the border into Peru. The colonial town of Puno is a good base from which to visit Lake Titicaca in Peru. Here you’ll find a range of hotels, and it’s a great starting point for various day trips.
Tip: Stay overnight at Titilaka Lodge
For an unforgettable experience, stay at the Titilaka Lodge, around 90 kilometres from Puno. This unique luxury hotel is situated on a ‘private’ peninsula with panoramic views over Lake Titicaca. The hotel has 18 stylishly designed rooms. Your stay here is on a full-board basis, with the excursions on offer included.
Photos: Titilaka Lodge
The Uros Indians on floating reed beds
On the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, you will find the floating reed islands, or Islas Flotantes. On these islands, which are literally made of reeds, the Uros people still live in the traditional way.
We set off in a small boat and sail past the islands. On the islands, men and women in traditional dress are cheerfully waving at us. It’s a remarkable sight and almost impossible to imagine that these people actually live on these islands. We’re told how the islands are built and given a guided trip of one of them. One island has several little houses, so it’s a sort of village. We’re also allowed to look inside one of the houses, which really consists of nothing more than a bed and a bale of reeds serving as a bench. Finally, we’re dressed in traditional clothing.
These days, the people here make their living from tourism. And although the locals still live a traditional way of life, the place has taken on a distinctly touristy feel. Nevertheless, it’s lovely to visit and enjoy the hospitality and cheerfulness of the locals. Let’s just call it the Volendam of Peru.
It was time for us to leave Lake Titicaca. If you have a bit more time, you can visit several other small islands in the lake. One of these is the little island of Taquile. This is home to the Aymara people. Maurice from 3opreis visited this island and wrote a lovely piece about it.
Trip of Bolivia and Peru
Would you like to go on a self-guided trip of Peru and Bolivia and visit Lake Titicaca? Then do take a look at our Bolivia and Peru trip, which we have put together to inspire you. You can book this trip directly, but we’d also be happy to put together a personalised itinerary based on your wishes and ideas.
Do you have a question? Please feel free to get in touch with us. Call +31 73 610 62 04 or send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl. We’d be happy to help.