Staying overnight on Isla Palenque, Panama
Like Robinson Crusoe on a desert island
It’s late afternoon. The red glow of the setting sun shows David, a town in western Panama, at its most beautiful. We don’t see much of it, though, as we’re on our way to a tiny little island in the Pacific. “If we head the other way from here, we’ll be in Costa Rica within an hour,” says my driver, also called David, as we turn onto the Pan-American Highway. This is the longest motorway in the world, linking the north of Alaska with the southernmost tip of South America. It’s another hour and a half’s drive to the little harbour of Boca Chica. Here, I’ll board a small boat that will take me to Isla Palenque.
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An idyllic spot in the Gulf of Chiriquí
Isla Palenque is a small island just off the coast of Panama, covered in tropical rainforest. In places where the dense greenery does not seem to plunge directly into the endless blue of the Pacific Ocean, the rainforest is separated from the ocean by picturesque bays with deserted beaches. The island is owned by the American architect Benjamin Loomis. Inspired by Daniel Defoe’s world-famous book *Robinson Crusoe*, he decided to buy this idyllic spot in the Gulf of Chiriquí and went on to live there for five years. To allow others to share in this little paradise, he began work on the Isla Palenque resort. It opened its doors in the summer of 2018.
Just 8 places to stay on a wide sandy beach
It is 10 November, the day on which Panama annually celebrates the first call for independence. As in many other places, this celebration in the harbour town of Puerto de Boca Chica is accompanied by plenty of drink, noise and loud music. Amidst the revelling crowd, I board the little boat that will take me to my final destination. It is now pitch black, and as the boat moves away from the mainland and deeper into the endless darkness, the sounds from the village fade away. It feels as though I’m truly leaving civilisation behind me.
After about 20 minutes, we arrive at a small jetty. I’m given a warm welcome by my host, Celianis. We drive to the other side of the island along a narrow, winding track through a dense forest. This is where the restaurant and the eight guest cottages are located. Although it is dark and I cannot make out my surroundings fully, a profound sense of tranquillity washes over me. In the distance, I can hear waves breaking on a beach whilst a balmy breeze blows through the trees. I walk to my cottage along a wide sandy path. The cottages are surrounded by lush greenery of shrubs and palm trees. They are no more than 50 metres from a wide sandy beach and are spaced well apart to ensure plenty of privacy.
Living like a character in a novel
In keeping with the owner’s vision – who, inspired by Daniel Defoe’s *Robinson Crusoe*, decided to buy this island – all eight cottages are named after famous writers who wrote about islands. I’ll be spending the next few days in the cottage named after the writer Herman Wouk. This writer of Jewish-American descent was born in 1915 in the Bronx, New York. In 1954, he published *The Caine Mutiny*, for which he won the Pulitzer Prize. However, the book that earned him a place among the writers after whom the cottages on Isla Palenque are named is *Don’t Stop the Carnival*, published in 1965. The story centres on a middle-aged press agent from New York who is going through a midlife crisis. In search of a better life, he takes a job as a hotelier on a fictional Caribbean island. What initially appears to be a joyful existence of pleasure and entertainment will ultimately turn out to be a vale of tears for the protagonist, Norman Paperman. Fortunately, I strongly feel that my stay here will not turn out that way.
Fully equipped
The houses are spacious, tastefully decorated and equipped with all modern conveniences. Upon entering, I spot the very book by Wouk that my stay is named after. Later, Celianis tells me that they have deliberately chosen to give visitors a book rather than provide televisions. This gives people the chance to truly unwind. However, there is a very strong Wi-Fi connection and an iPad is provided, allowing you to easily communicate with the staff at Isla Palenque so that your every need is catered for at all times.
During my stay on the island, I go for walks, go kayaking and try my hand at stand-up paddleboarding. Yet what I enjoy most is the serene tranquillity that reigns in this enchantingly beautiful place. I feel like a real Robinson Crusoe here, except without the hardships the castaway must have endured whilst trying to survive on a desert island.
Fancy a trip of Panama?
Would you like to organise your own trip of Panama and are you curious about the options? Then do have a look at the tours we’ve put together for inspiration. You can book these tours directly, but we’d also be happy to put together a personalised itinerary based on your wishes and ideas.
Do you have an immediate question? Then feel free to contact us. Call +31 73 610 62 04 or send an e-mail to info@sapapanatravel.nl. We are happy to help.