Memories of a Pan-American road trip
The Paso Chungará border crossing between Chile and Bolivia
In 2011–2012, I took part in the Panamericana Roadtrip alongside 83 classic Volvos. During this journey, we kept a record of our experiences, which we later compiled into the book ‘Panamericana Roadtrip’. One of my most memorable days of travel ever was crossing the border between Chile and Bolivia, which is why I’d like to share it again on our blog.
D-day: up into the mountains and more than fifty years back in time
“On Wednesday 28 December 2011, we had to cross at an altitude of over 4,600 metres, with the highest point lying exactly on the border. For many people, a border crossing is a source of stress. What’s more, it’s usually synonymous with endless waiting in stuffy rooms with annoyingly slow officials. And if there’s one thing you don’t need at such a high altitude, with a chronic lack of oxygen, it’s stress and waiting in stuffy rooms, topped off with a dash of mild to severe irritation.”
What’s more, crossing this border was like travelling back in time. Imagine drawing a line across a street somewhere in the Netherlands and, the moment you step over it, finding yourself in the middle of the poorest part of Romania. To top it all off, the Chilean Ministry of Transport and Public Works had decided, just a few days before our arrival, to start roadworks on the final 30 kilometres below the summit.
It promised to be an exciting day. Early in the morning, we set off for Bolivia under the approving gaze of local dignitaries. The first few kilometres went smoothly. The higher we climbed, the harder it became for the cars. Thirty kilometres below the summit, roadworks began. There was no more tarmac, just a narrow strip of unpaved road. By now, it had started to snow lightly. The older cars were really struggling. People barely had time to take in the breathtaking scenery.
Once we reached the border, things were far from smooth. Paperwork, chaos, low oxygen levels – we had a tough time of it. People crossed the border in dribs and drabs, and once again the landscape was different. We really felt as though we’d stepped back in time, and the people looked very different. The road was remarkably good and wound its way through a spectacular, open yet green mountainous landscape like a giant ribbon, casually draped across an otherwise desolate landscape. Oh, how beautiful Bolivia is!
As evening fell, we reached El Alto, the vast and chaotic suburb of La Paz, unaware that the worst of the day was yet to come. The numerous police escorts were unable to prevent many of us from getting stuck in the sheer chaos of the traffic. On the steep streets, brakes overheated and clutch plates burnt out. By one o’clock in the morning, everyone was back at the hotel, exhausted and drained, but with a suitcase full of stories.”
More about driving
It’s also possible to organise your own road trip through Latin America. If you’d like to find out more, please take a look at the ‘Driving’ section on our website. Do you have any questions about a unique road trip through Latin America, would you like a bespoke travel proposal, or would you like to arrange an appointment at our office? Please feel free to get in touch with us. Send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl or call us on +31 73 610 62 04. We’ll be happy to help.
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