Petra in the Galápagos

Petra has previously written about her first few days on the Galapagos Islands. Did you miss this, or would you like to read it again? Then take a look at Petra in the Galapagos, Part 1.

More about the Galápagos

After our walk around the island, we return to our boat. Whilst we put on our wetsuits, we sail towards Devil’s Crown. We jump straight into the water from the pangas. Devil’s Crown is a ring-shaped rock formation just off the coast that rises straight out of the sea and resembles a crown when viewed from a distance. The reason it is called the ‘Devil’s’ Crown is that it is believed only a devil could wear such an uncomfortable crown. This spot is regarded as one of the best dive sites in the archipelago. The rocks provide an attractive habitat for small fish, which in turn attract larger fish. This means there’s a good chance of spotting hammerhead sharks, whitetip reef sharks, sea turtles and large rays such as manta rays and spotted eagle rays. Unfortunately, we’re less fortunate when it comes to spotting wildlife at Devil’s Crown; the current is quite strong and, after a few attempts where we have to do our best to stay together, our sensible guide decides it’s better for us to head back on board the panga.
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As soon as we board, a delicious barbecue is waiting for us on the sun deck. After lunch, we have a little time to ourselves. I head to my cabin to ring home. On the phone, I tell them how incredibly special it is to be here. From my cabin, I can see a few ‘unusual’ waves in the distance. As I look more closely, I see it again, but this time I realise it’s a large manta ray. As I still can’t quite believe it, I check with the guides on board. They say it’s entirely possible and that the manta rays probably ‘jump’ high out of the water to dislodge the parasites from their undersides.

Posting cards at Post Office Bay

In the afternoon, we write a few postcards which we pop into the postbox at Post Office Bay. ‘Post Office Bay’ is situated on the northern side of the island of Floreana. Here, the legend of pirates and whalers lives on. The first whalers placed a postbox here and left their messages for home in it. The idea was that other skippers would take the letters with them and ensure the messages were delivered to the correct address. The original postbox is long gone, but letters can still be posted here. Even today, the post is still sent in the same way as it was in the days of the whalers. We left some postcards there in the hope that the next visitors would take them and deliver them. So far, three of my four postcards have been delivered. Of course, I also took a postcard with me and delivered it in the Netherlands.

After this lovely visit, we have a bit of time for some snorkelling. From the shore, I can already see a few rays swimming, so it takes me a fair bit of courage to get into the water. I manage to overcome my fear and slowly wade into the water. Very close by, I see a large sea turtle swimming – how amazing! As we return to the beach, I’m warned that there are now several stingrays near the shore. I look around and realise I’m surrounded by perhaps as many as five stingrays. Taking it slowly, shuffling through the sand, I make my way back to the beach.
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In the evening, it’s one of the guests’ birthday. The crew dress up in style and organise a fun party on board, featuring a performance by the ‘Origin Boobies Band’. The ship’s captain sings ‘La Bamba’ at the top of his voice. ‘Yo no soy marinero, Yo no soy marinero, soy capitán’.

Day 4: back in civilisation for a while

After a lovely evening of music and dancing, we wake up the next day off the coast of Santa Cruz Island. This island is the middle one of the three inhabited islands in the archipelago and is regarded as the beating heart of the Galápagos. Today we’re going to explore the island.
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After spending a few days on uninhabited islands, it feels almost strange to see an island that is actually inhabited. The island has its own infrastructure, with various hotels, restaurants and shops. We are taken to the El Manzanillo Giant Tortoise Reserve in the highlands of Santa Cruz. This is a reserve for giant tortoises. We put on rubber boots to walk through the area. It is a marshy area home to as many as 600 giant tortoises. At first, we only spot a few large tortoises here and there, but as we walk further through the area, we see them all around us. Some have shorter or longer necks, wider or narrower shells. It’s lovely to see how these remarkable animals can live here in freedom on the farm.

​The day continues with a visit to Los Gemelos. The name refers to the two craters situated right next to the main road. In reality, they are not craters at all, but holes formed when the roofs of the empty magma chambers collapsed. This was caused by tectonic shifts and erosion. Inside the craters, there is a beautiful green forest, featuring bromeliads, orchids, mosses and many birds, such as various Charles Darwin finches. We take another walk through the forest and head towards one of the naturally formed lava tunnels – a remarkable geological formation. Along the way, we spot unusual birds such as the woodpecker finch and a barn owl.

Lonesome George

In the afternoon, we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, which has been working since the 1960s to conserve and restore the archipelago’s flora and fauna. Here, we learn more about the giant tortoises. Once the tortoises have grown large enough, they are transferred to other islands. We also visit the exhibition created in honour of Lonesome George. ‘Lonesome George’ was the last tortoise on Pinta Island and died in 2012 at the age of 102. In his final years, he was known as the rarest creature in the world. Today, George is an important symbol for the conservation of the Galápagos and the rest of the world. After this visit, we take a short stroll through the centre of Puerto Ayora. I have a beer here with some of the other guests.

At the end of the afternoon, we return on board, where another delicious dinner is served in the evening. Our Galapagos cruise is already halfway through; time is flying by – or should I say, sailing by. In the evening, we sail northwards to the islet of Sombrero Chino.