Crossing surfers in El Salvador
El Salvador doesn’t usually feature in lists of the most popular holiday destinations. Most people haven’t heard of it, and so the age-old saying ‘unknown means unloved’ quickly applies. That’s a shame, because El Salvador is a wonderful country.
A forgotten country
You could compare El Salvador to Uruguay in South America. Neither country has any real highlights, and yet, when people visit these places, they never really want to leave. There’s simply a wonderful atmosphere, the people are friendly, the countryside is beautiful with picturesque villages, and along the coast you’ll find idyllic bays with breathtakingly beautiful beaches. For me, El Salvador is a wonderful country with very friendly people. Travellers who have been on a trip with us in this country have experienced this too.
A promising gateway
I boarded a small boat in northern Nicaragua and am now sailing through the Gulf of Fonseca to El Salvador, the smallest country in Central America. Flocks of seabirds are searching for fish to take back to their nests on one of the many uninhabited islets we’re passing by on the boat. Sometimes schools of dolphins are spotted here too, but unfortunately that isn’t the case today. The little boat that brought me over from Nicaragua moors in the little harbour of La Unión. ‘Bienvenidos a El Salvador’ is written on the wooden sign above the jetty that grants me access to this promising country. After the local customs officer has confirmed my official entry into the country with a stamp, I enjoy some fresh fish in a restaurant overlooking the bay of La Unión.
Surfers’ Paradise
The sleepy fishing village of El Cuco is my next destination. This place is becoming increasingly well-known amongst keen surfers. The many bays along the coast of El Salvador are, in fact, among the best surfing spots in the world. From the harbour, it’s just an hour’s drive to El Cuco. The first part of the route takes me through the interior, with views of green mountains and volcanic peaks. The route then takes me along a spectacular coastline with imposing cliffs, interspersed with vast bays where the ocean is separated from the tropical greenery by dark-coloured sandy beaches.
Down below, the waves break on mostly deserted beaches. We bump along the narrow road, occasionally passing some lovely country houses. On the way, I spot a rather unusual road sign reading: ‘Reduzca velocidad surfistas en la vía’. Loosely translated: ‘Slow down for surfers crossing the road’. It turns out to be typical of the coastal region in El Salvador, and there’s really no better way to capture the country’s characteristic laid-back atmosphere.
Hotel Los Mangos
After an hour’s drive, I arrive at Hotel Los Mangos, just outside El Cuco. This small-scale hotel, overlooking Punta Mangos and the Pacific Ocean, is run by Esther van Dort from the Netherlands and her Salvadoran husband. It turns out to be a lovely place. From the hotel, the swimming pool and the covered but open-air restaurant and bar, you can enjoy a phenomenal view and an equally stunning sunset. After a good night’s sleep, I set off to explore the surrounding area. In El Cuco, I hop into a kayak to explore a mangrove area. It’s an area where many birds come to breed.
Sea turtles
Later that day, I visit the surfing village of El Zonte and the sea turtle conservation and hatching project. The eggs are hatched here, after which the hatchlings are released onto the beach to make their way to the sea. Previously, the eggs were dug up and used for food, which meant the sea turtles seemed to be disappearing. Thanks to the FUNZEL initiative, the sea turtle population is being maintained. A member of staff tells me more about the project, after which we release a few turtles onto the beach. A truly special experience.
Lunch in Los Mangos consists of pupusas, El Salvador’s national snack. They look like tortillas, but the dough is stuffed and then fried. To help my lunch settle, I head down a flight of steps to the small, deserted bay and take a short walk along the black sand beach. It’s warm, so I take a refreshing dip in the waves.
Off to the interior
The next morning, I leave the coast and head inland. The interior is green, and the landscape is dominated by the country’s 23 volcanoes. On the way, I pass through Puerto Barillas. This is a vast private estate situated on Jiquilisco Bay. This extensive mangrove area is home to seabirds, several species of monkey, caimans and sea turtles. The Puerto Barillas estate features a cocoa plantation, a small marina and guest accommodation.
A painful past, a bright future
The journey continues to San Salvador, the country’s capital. From the 1970s until the early 1990s, a fierce civil war raged in El Salvador, claiming many lives. I visit the monument in San Salvador on which are inscribed the names of 30,000 civilian victims who lost their lives in this war. I am deeply moved as I walk past the enormous wall and read the names. It strikes me that today’s young people want to leave this period behind them and work towards a bright future in a positive way. This is also the atmosphere I sense in this country: pleasant and positive.
Birds singing in the main square
I decide to leave the capital behind and travel on to the picturesque village of Suchitoto. This sleepy little town overlooks Lake Suchitlán. In Suchitoto, it feels as though time has stood still. Birds are singing in the trees on the small central square, whilst I gaze out at the picturesque white façade of San Lucia Church, which stands on this square. It’s lovely to stroll through the quaint little streets. On the edge of the village, you’re treated to a breathtaking view of Lake Suchitlán and its green surroundings dotted with volcanic peaks.
Stay at Los Almendros de San Lorenzo
My favourite hotel in this village is, without a doubt, Los Almendros de San Lorenzo. This charming hotel is housed in a historic building dating from 1805 and is situated on the outskirts of the town centre. Over a period of 17 months, this beautiful building was completely restored and returned to its former glory by the owners, Pascal Lebailly and his partner Joaquín Rodezno. Pascal is originally from France, where he organised events in the fashion industry, whilst Joaquín is from El Salvador and served his country as an ambassador in Paris, Brussels and Rome. The six charming rooms overlook the beautiful patio. Across the street, the hotel also boasts a luxurious wedding suite. A truly enchanting place, where you will be thoroughly pampered.
The Pompeii of Mayan civilisation
Suchitoto isn’t the only thing the beautiful interior of El Salvador has to offer. I also visit the Joya de Cerén archaeological site. Joya de Cerén is the Pompeii of the Maya civilisation. This farming village from the Maya period was completely buried under lava in 640 AD and has therefore been perfectly preserved. What makes this place special is that it is an ordinary farming village. Whereas most archaeological sites from the Maya civilisation consist of royal cities, palaces or the tombs of nobles and wealthy families. Research at Joya de Cerén is shedding more light on everyday life in the countryside during the Maya civilisation, and that is what makes this place unique.
Ruta de las Flores
From here, I drive on to Sonsonate to begin the Ruta de las Flores, a beautiful road between the towns of Sonsonate and Concepción de Ataco. The route takes its name from the many flowers that bloom here, particularly between November and February. Flowers and colourful villages alternate with the characteristic landscape of coffee plantations.
At a food stall on the lively little square in front of the church, I order a delicious pupusa. The atmosphere here is friendly and relaxed. As I drive on towards Concepción de Ataco – commonly known simply as Ataco – the weather turns. Dark clouds are gathering, heralding a heavy downpour. This area is therefore also an attractive holiday destination for Salvadorans looking to escape the heat of the coast and the lowlands. Ataco is a special village. In 2004, the community took part in a local competition to find the liveliest village in El Salvador. They decided to give the village a complete makeover with murals, and as a result, it now feels as though you’re strolling through a real open-air museum. If you love street art, then Ataco is an absolute must-visit.
The picture is complete
I’m rounding off my journey through this beautiful, still largely undiscovered Central American country on the coast near La Libertad. I reach this town via a breathtakingly beautiful coastal road. The beaches around this town are a bit busier, particularly during the holiday season or at weekends, as many residents of the capital want to spend their days off in this coastal region. I sit on the terrace by the swimming pool and look out over the sea. Seated in front of me are three elderly gentlemen. They turn out to be seasoned surfing enthusiasts, watching and assessing the youngsters in the sea. For me, this completes the picture.
More about visiting El Salvador
Would you like to organise your own trip of El Salvador? That’s possible, and we’d be happy to help you with it. Do you have any questions about a unique trip of El Salvador, would you like a bespoke travel proposal, or would you like to arrange an appointment at our office? Please feel free to get in touch with us. Send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl or call us on +31 73 610 62 04. We’d be happy to help.
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