The Amazon from Colombia

Indigenous communities know no borders

​From the Colombian capital, I travel to Leticia. With a population of over 40,000, Leticia is the main centre of the Colombian Amazon, and the town can only be reached by water or by air. Leticia lies in the far south of the country, at the tri-border area shared by Colombia, Peru and Brazil. The region is significant not only for its flora and fauna, but also from a cultural perspective. Many indigenous cultures live in this region. This is also why there are no passport checks when you cross the border here. For the indigenous communities, these borders simply do not exist, I am told, when I visit the Peruvian community of Natamü, situated on the southern bank of the Amazon. The members of this community belong to the Ticuna culture. This is the largest indigenous Amazonian culture in the Colombian, Brazilian and Peruvian parts of the Amazon. From the village, we continue by boat to a tributary of the Amazon. Since late 2018, there has been a simple lodge here, run by members of the Natamü community.

A riot of scents, colours and animal sounds

During the first part of our journey, which still takes us along the main branch of the Amazon, we spot pink river dolphins surfacing several times. Upon reaching the tributary, we transfer to a smaller canoe which takes us on to the lodge. After half an hour’s paddle, we arrive and find ourselves surrounded solely by the tropical rainforest. It is a riot of scents, colours and animal sounds. We have now left the hustle and bustle of the main river far behind us.

During our stay, members of the Ticuna community take us on canoe trips and walks through the rainforest, telling us more about the secrets of the jungle, drawing on the vast knowledge of plants and animals that has been passed down from generation to generation. The rainforest harbours dangers, with poisonous plants and animals that can kill you in the blink of an eye. On the other hand, you’ll find the healthiest nutrients here, and the Amazon basin is regarded as a living pharmacy. This has always fascinated me enormously, and I believe we must do everything we can to protect the Amazon basin and its indigenous cultures. If the rainforest were to disappear, hugely important natural resources would be lost, and with the disappearance of the indigenous cultures, knowledge of this natural world would also be lost.

Once the sun has set, we take another boat trip down the river. In the duckweed and all around us, countless little lights twinkle, created by tiny bioluminescent insects. A breathtaking light show, the likes of which I have never seen before. Tired but content, I slip under my mosquito net and drift off to sleep to the sounds of the jungle.

From a fairground ride to a breathtakingly beautiful setting

After a lovely breakfast, we head back to the main branch of the Amazon. We sail eastwards along the river towards Puerto Nariño. Before we arrive there, we make two more stops. I don’t want to dwell too long on the first one. We moor at Isla de los Micos, a sort of monkey park full of overfed monkeys. Afterwards, this fairground-style attraction concludes with a little dance performed by an indigenous group. In my view, this doesn’t give you a true picture of what the Amazon has to offer. Fortunately, we soon carry on our journey to visit the Canaloa Jungle Lodge. This intimate resort is tucked away on the banks of the Amazon. The hustle and bustle of boats coming and going, as you find in Leticia and the nearby villages, is nowhere to be seen here. When we moor at the small jetty, we are warmly welcomed by Marlene and Diego Samper. This couple are originally from Bogotá, but have been living in the Amazon for over 30 years.

We arrive in Puerto Nariño at the end of the afternoon. This small settlement is the second most important place in the Amazon after Leticia, though it is really little more than a hamlet. It is a pleasant spot on the banks of the Amazon, where you won’t come across any cars or mopeds. There are two tractors in the village, used to transport heavy loads. Outside the village, everything is done on foot or by bike. The riverbank is considered the heart of the village – a grassy area with a sports field where the locals gather to chat, play sport or simply enjoy sitting in the sun. The setting sun bathes the scene in a golden glow. The village makes the most of solar energy wherever possible. There is a small water treatment plant, so that plastic water bottles can be phased out as much as possible. People here make their living from tourism and fishing. In the afternoon, we take a short boat trip to nearby Lake Tarapoto. The aim is to spot pink river dolphins. Unfortunately, we don’t see any, but the breathtakingly beautiful surroundings more than make up for it.

The importance of the Amazon and its indigenous cultures

The next day, we travel back to Leticia, where another special day awaits us. We are warmly welcomed by Rafael Clavijo from Reserva Ecológico Mundo Amazónico. With infectious enthusiasm, he tells us about the park and his family’s mission. After Aná Maria Pardo, Rafael’s mother, moved to Leticia with her family from the department of Santander, she was struck by the region’s immense natural and cultural wealth. She immediately recognised the importance of the Amazon rainforest and the knowledge that the indigenous cultures possess about it. To preserve and share this knowledge, Rafael’s parents founded Reserva Ecológico Mundo Amazónico in 1976. In my view, it is one of the best parks/interpretation centres of its kind.

The park is a vast botanical garden where you can go on various themed walks. For example, you can go on a walk where you’re given an explanation of medicinal plants. We went on a culinary walk where we selected the ingredients we would later use to make a traditional local dish. The walks are led by guides who all come from different indigenous communities.

​A number of traditional houses have been reconstructed in the park, and in one of these we were welcomed by Señor Antonio Bolivar Salvador, the tribal elder of the Tocaima culture. Like other indigenous cultures of the Amazon, his culture is threatened with extinction. As the extinction of these cultures means that much knowledge about the Amazon is lost, Antonio does everything he can to share his knowledge. In inspiring sessions with tourists and students, he uses his life story to tell of the cultures of the Amazon.

Ambassador for the Colombian Amazon

My visit to the Mundo Amazonico Ecological Reserve marks the end of my journey through this extraordinary region. In my view, the Amazon basin is one of the most important regions in the world. Not only because of its biodiverse flora and fauna, but also because of its indigenous cultures. We must protect this region as much as possible. Through responsible tourism and by fostering ambassadors, we hope to make a contribution. It is important that we offer a deeper experience, one that goes beyond a traditional dance and an island full of monkeys. Fortunately, I have come across various initiatives. They have made a deep impression on me, and I know they will touch other travellers too.