Mexico: a paradise for foodies
Mexican food culture is just as diverse as the country and its people. Every region and city has its own local speciality. A culinary tour of Mexico is therefore an absolute must for any foodie. Johan has been there before you and shares what you absolutely mustn’t miss on a culinary tour.
Food as an important part of daily life
In Mexico, food is an integral part of social life and helps to shape the Mexican identity. Most of the dishes served in Mexican restaurants in the Netherlands are, in almost every case, limited to the sort of ‘Tex-Mex’ food served in fast-food restaurants in the southern states of the US. As a result, we often get a very limited impression of what the diverse Mexican cuisine actually has to offer.
Fortunately, more and more attention is being paid to authentic, refined Mexican cuisine. For example, a documentary series such as ‘Las Crónicas del Taco’, currently available on Netflix, or the series ‘Street Food Latin America’ – also on Netflix, where episode 3 focuses on the street food culture in Oaxaca – you’ll get a much better impression of what Mexico has to offer in culinary terms.
Watch the trailer for Las Crónicas del Taco below
Start your culinary tour in Mexico City
The best place to start a culinary tour of Mexico is in Mexico City. A visit to the leafy Roma neighbourhood is an absolute must on such a trip. Roma is a colourful and artistic neighbourhood. Get your day off to a good start with chilaquiles for breakfast. Chilaquiles are fried tortillas from the previous day and are considered the ultimate Mexican dish to start the day with. They are often served with a green, red or black mole – a typical Mexican sauce – combined with frijoles, a brown bean stew. I had some delicious chilaquiles at Fonda Mayora. This restaurant was opened in 2016 by the highly acclaimed Mexican chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo and specialises mainly in breakfast. (photos: Fonda Mayora)
Taco al Pastor
Just as Mexican culture has been shaped by many influences from all over the world, so too is its cuisine diverse. One example of this is the popular Taco al Pastor. This taco consists of lamb and bears similarities to the Turkish kebab. This taco dates back to the time when Lebanese immigrants arrived in Mexico in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They prepared the lamb in the way they had learnt at home, but added Mexican herbs and spices. The Turkish bread was replaced by the Mexican taco.
There are many places where you can buy this delicacy, but Taco los Güeros on Calle Lorenzo Boturini, on the road to the airport, comes highly recommended. Many residents of Mexico City often stop here when they’ve just landed at the airport after a long journey. El Vilsito is also definitely worth a mention. During the day, it’s just a car garage, but every evening the place is transformed into a taqueria, where, it is said, the best al Pastor is served.
Fine dining at Pujol
When it comes to fine dining, you can also indulge to your heart’s content in Mexico City. As well as the Roma district, the Polanco and Condesa districts are home to the finest restaurants. The absolute crème de la crème is, of course, Restaurant Pujol, run by Mexican chef Enrique Olivera. This year, the restaurant was named the third-best restaurant in Latin America and ranks 12th on the list of the world’s best restaurants. The restaurant is housed in a beautiful historic building in the upmarket Polanco district and is, in fact, the place where all the best that Mexico’s diverse cuisine has to offer comes together in a highly refined manner. You absolutely must try the Mole Madre here. (photos: Pujol restaurant)
The seven moles of Oaxaca
If you’ve tried the Mole Madre, then it’s time to travel on to Oaxaca. If you’re embarking on a culinary journey of discovery through Mexico, this city is an absolute must-see. Skipping Oaxaca is like going on an archaeological trip to Egypt and not visiting the Pyramids of Giza. In Oaxaca, people talk about the seven moles of Oaxaca. The best known is undoubtedly the Mole Negro, which includes chocolate among its ingredients.
Tacos del Carmen
During my stay in Oaxaca, I was tipped off about the food stall Tacos del Carmen. This stall has been run by a group of ladies since the 1970s, and I was told it’s one of the best places to try the local street food.
It was seven o’clock in the morning when I left my hotel and walked through the still-quiet streets of Oaxaca to the little eatery. I wasn’t the only one who wanted to start my day with a taco, quesadilla or empanada, accompanied by a coffee or an atole, a traditional Mexican maize drink. I opted for the Taco de Chile Relleno con Quesillo, a taco filled with stuffed chillies and cheese. I then also enjoyed a ‘Quesadilla con Flor de Calabaza con Quesillo’. The dishes at Tacos del Carmen are all rich in flavour. Everything is freshly prepared and the ladies clearly enjoy what they’re doing. Like the Tacos del Carmen food stall, there are many stalls where street food has been elevated to a true art form. Right there on the street, sitting on a wooden stool, you’ll usually be treated to a better culinary experience here than in many a ‘top’ restaurant.
Cooking with insects
In Oaxaca, you can enjoy delicious street food, but there are of course also plenty of restaurants where you can sample Mexican cuisine in all its glory. I remember having lunch at the Casa Oaxaca restaurant, where I ate a ‘tostada de insectos con chicitanas, chapulines, gusitanos de maguey, guacamole tepiche y rabanitos’ – in other words, a dish full of Mexican insects. Just like with all the other dishes, this one pleasantly surprised my taste buds once again.
Colourful and fragrant local markets
Incidentally, a culinary journey through Mexico isn’t complete without a visit to a few local markets. Among other places, I visited local markets in the historic town of San Miguel de Allende in colonial Mexico, and the market in Mérida, the capital of Yucatán. These markets are a veritable explosion of scents and colours. You’ll find the most beautiful vegetables, spices and fruit there, and there’s always the chance to sample traditional dishes at the various stalls.
Incidentally, in Yucatán you’ll also find a dish with strong Dutch links. Queso Relleno, the traditional dish of this region, consists of a hollowed-out Edam cheese filled with minced meat, raisins, almonds and olives, topped with tomato and ‘k’ool blanco’ sauce, a sauce that has its origins in Mayan culture.
The best time to go on a culinary tour
Of course, you can always eat there, but if you really want to experience everything Mexico has to offer in terms of gastronomy, I’d recommend doing so in September. On 16 September, Mexico celebrates its independence and, being the patriotic nation that it is, this is celebrated for almost the entire month. In fact, during this month, a traditional Mexican dish is served in the colours of the national flag – a dish not to be missed, and one that more than justifies choosing to travel in September. The dish in question is called Chiles en Nogada. It consists of Poblano chillies stuffed with picadillo and a creamy sauce made from walnuts. This white sauce, combined with the red of the pomegranates and the green of the parsley, forms the national tricolour.
Traditional drinks
A culinary journey through Mexico will surprise even the most discerning foodie with its vast array of aromas, colours and flavours. And that’s not even mentioning the mezcal and tequila, or the fact that wonderful wines are produced in the north of the state of Baja California. A trip through Mexico is always incredibly varied, stimulating absolutely all the senses.
A culinary tour of Mexico
Would you like to discover Mexican food culture for yourself and are you curious about the possibilities? That’s certainly possible, and we’d be happy to help you with this. Do you have any questions about a unique tour of Mexico, would you like a bespoke travel proposal, or would you like to arrange an appointment at our office? Please feel free to get in touch with us. Send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl or call us on +31 73 610 62 04. We’d be happy to help.
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