A treasure hunt through multifaceted Ecuador (1)
As a child, I always loved treasure hunts. The way you had to search for ‘hidden treasures’ using cryptic clues, where the ‘journey’ was always more enjoyable than reaching the ‘destination’. What if you could actually go on a journey modelled on this very concept? That is exactly what I’ve been doing over the past month in Ecuador. We also call it a ‘Heroes trip’.
Otavalo
After arriving at the international airport in the Ecuadorian capital, Sebastian is already waiting for me. In just under an hour and a half, we drive to Otavalo, north of Quito. As the airport is situated on the northern side of the city, you don’t have to drive all the way through the city to get here, meaning that after arrival you can reach Otavalo almost as quickly as you can reach Quito’s historic centre.
The Otavaleños
I’m staying at the Hotel Otavalo. This hotel is situated in the heart of the town of the same name, which is regarded as the centre of Otavaleño culture. The Otavaleños are an indigenous people who take pride in their culture and actively promote it. Both men and women often wear traditional dress, and Kichwa, the indigenous language, is spoken by almost everyone. At the‘Los Ponchos’market, which is world-famous particularly for its Saturday market, a wide range of handicrafts from the surrounding area are on sale. These handicrafts are renowned for their high quality. Each community often specialises in a particular type of craft. For example, the village of Cotocachi, just north of Otavalo, is renowned for its leatherwork.
During this trip, I’ll be immersing myself in Ecuadorian culture in a unique way. I know which places I’ll be visiting – namely Otavalo and the surrounding area, Quito, the historic city of Cuenca and the Galápagos Islands. But exactly what I’ll be doing remains a mystery right up until the last moment.
“ Dear Mr Johan: bending wire, who would conspire to create a flower from fire? ”
This is one of the cryptic descriptions I received. It turns out, in the end, that I am a guest of an artist who creates works of art from copper and who then takes the time to help me make a copper rose.
Cooking with Claudia and a Kichwa blessing
In Otavalo and the surrounding area, I met Claudia, who welcomed me into her home dressed in traditional costume. There, amongst the guinea pigs, I learnt to cook on a traditional ‘Tulpa’. Monica taught me weaving techniques dating back to the seventeenth century, and Segundo Lema taught me all about the music and musical instruments of the Andes.
I went on a boat trip on Lake Imbacocha, better known as Lake San Pablo, early in the morning. Whilst on the boat, I learnt about the legend of Mama Cotacachi and Tata Imbabura. I also gave thanks to the volcanic peaks through Aya Huma, a spiritual figure from the Kichwa culture. This combination of a colourful and fascinating culture, set against a backdrop of breathtaking mountain scenery with perpetually snow-capped volcanic peaks and crystal-clear lakes, surrounded by dense forests and farmland, is truly enchanting.
Quito
After spending a few days in northern Ecuador, we travel back to Quito, Ecuador’s historic capital. On the way, we cross the equator once again, which runs through the country just north of Quito. At the Intiñan Equator Museum, I discover that this line is not just any line on a map. Here, you’ll learn a little more about Ecuador, with its diverse ecosystems and ethnic groups. The main attraction is undoubtedly the equator itself; through various experiments, you’ll discover just how remarkable this dividing line between the northern and southern hemispheres really is. Before we carry on, we also stop off at Casa de Agave. I won’t give too much away about this, but I learnt here that a museum dedicated to the agave plant needn’t be boring at all.
Mama Cuchara
Once I arrive in Quito, I’m staying at Mama Cuchara. This is a boutique hotel housed in a historic building, overlooking Rocafuerte, a street that runs through the city’s historic centre. Near the hotel, this street opens out onto a small circular square, making it look like a‘Cuchara’ – Spanish for ‘spoon’ – when viewed from above. In Quito, I rediscover the city in an unusual way. I set off with a historical figure, a lady from the early nineteenth century, who takes me to a number of special places. She tells me more about the legend of Cantuña, who saved his soul in a daring manner whilst striking a deal with the devil to ensure the atrium of the Franciscan monastery on San Francisco Square was completed on time. I’ll also be visiting a few remarkable artists, though unfortunately I can’t say any more about them here just yet 😉
Cuenca
In Cuenca, I’m staying at the lovely Cruz del Vado hotel, which overlooks the Tomebamba River and is situated just a few blocks from the main square. From the roof terrace, you have a spectacular view of the cathedral’s bright blue domes overlooking the main square. Cuenca is one of the most beautiful and liveable cities in Latin America. The city is peaceful and safe, yet offers a wide selection of excellent restaurants. It is also surrounded by green hills and natural beauty. The spectacularly beautiful high mountains of El Cajas National Park are less than an hour’s drive from the city centre. Here, too, I got to know the city and its people through a number of special activities – one of which left my fingers quite grubby, whilst another required me to take care not to burn them.
Drive to Guayaquil
We then drove to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s major port city. The route is spectacular, and we made a short stop along the way at Hacienda La Danesa for a sumptuous lunch. La Danesa is a beautiful place to stay, set on a working farm in a tropical landscape.
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