On adventure in the Surinamese jungle at Amatopo
In June and July 2025, I travelled through Suriname, a destination that never ceases to surprise me. A country where unspoilt nature and a warm, hospitable population go hand in hand. A country where the jungle is never far away and where rivers make up the vast majority of the transport network. Although my entire trip was full of special moments and places, my stay at Amatopo Rainforest Retreat was, without a doubt, the icing on the cake!
The journey into the deep interior of Suriname
Early in the morning, I am taken to the small Zorg en Hoop airfield. There, everything follows a set routine: check-in, luggage and I are weighed to ensure the little aeroplane takes off properly balanced. Before long, I’m ‘good to go’. My luggage, along with other cargo bound for the village of Amatopo, is carefully loaded. I’m allowed to take a seat in the co-pilot’s seat. The pilot carries out the final checks and then the signal sounds: ready for take-off – here we go.
Paramaribo slowly fades from view beneath us. At first I can still make out some buildings and roads, but soon the greenery takes over. What follows is nearly two hours of uninterrupted views of dense jungle, endless greenery, winding rivers and the occasional scattered clearing.
“ Nothing but dense jungle and winding rivers as far as the eye could see ”
Amatopo is situated some 400 km from Paramaribo, close to the border with neighbouring Guyana, on the Corantijn River. This wide river forms the natural border between the two countries. You only need to cross a few hundred metres of water and you’re officially in another country.
A warm welcome
So, Amatopo. A tiny speck on the map, right in the middle of the greenery. As soon as we land on the small strip of sand that serves as a runway, it feels as though I’m in a completely different world. As soon as I step out of the little plane, I’m given a warm welcome by Jeroen, the lodge manager, and the team. I look around and see… nothing. Well, ‘nothing’ isn’t quite the right word. I see everything – nature in its purest form.
It feels extraordinary to suddenly find myself in the middle of the rainforest after a flight of just under two hours. The view from the lodge is impressive: jungle as far as the eye can see, with the wide river flowing peacefully by. There are no tarmac roads or streetlights here – just jungle, silence and, now and then, the screeching of macaws in the background.
Before long, I find myself sitting with a plate of steaming Surinamese pom in front of me. Lunch with a view: a sweeping panorama of the Corantijn River, endless jungle as far as the eye can see… The photos I take are lovely, but they certainly don’t do the reality justice.
Into the jungle
Then it’s time for some action: a challenging hike is on the agenda. Accompanied by two guides, I set off into the unspoilt jungle – no well-trodden path, but the jungle in its purest form. The guides hack a path through the undergrowth here and there; we trudge through the mud and cross small streams using makeshift bridges. Along the way, I enjoy everything nature has to offer: tiny frogs no bigger than your fingernail, capuchin monkeys high up in the trees, fresh footprints from a tapir that has recently come to drink, and caimans basking in the sun.
After two hours of climbing, scrambling and trudging on, we reach the Lucie River, where our boatman is already waiting for us again. We sail gently back, from the Lucie River out onto the wide Corantijn River – our natural motorway back to the lodge. I’m enjoying the natural surroundings, and what I see next is indescribable: the setting sun is shining beautifully, just enough to make the jungle’s greenery glow, whilst the sky provides a dark blue backdrop – a sense of foreboding that hints at the rain to come. And then, suddenly, a full, bright rainbow appears, seeming to rise from the jungle. What a wonderful way to round off this afternoon!
Hilltop Lodge
During my stay at Amatopo, I’m staying at the Hilltop Lodge. As the name suggests, the lodge is situated high up and the balcony offers a fantastic view over the wide Corantijn River. The room is very spacious and has a lovely bed; the air conditioning can be switched on at certain times – something that’s particularly welcome after a hot day in the jungle. The shower is lovely and has hot water; after long days full of adventure, a relaxing shower is exactly what you need to round off the day. The silence of the jungle, combined with the comfortable bed, ensures that I wake up the next morning feeling fully rested. The first thing I do, of course, is throw open the doors and enjoy the view first thing in the morning: the river, the jungle and the tranquillity that make this place so special.
Stories in stone and water
After a delicious and hearty breakfast, we set off again. We sail upstream along the outer channel of the Corantijn River, during which I’m given all sorts of information about the location, the natural environment and the wildlife – it’s particularly interesting. Meanwhile, we keep an eye out for animals and spot, amongst others, howler monkeys, toucans, macaws and various other bird species.
We’re heading for a special stretch of wilderness: an area with a natural ‘staircase’ of small waterfalls and rapids, situated at the back of Raaf Olo, which means ‘Ravengat’. Our boatman has to pull out all the stops – figuratively speaking, that is – because the water is treacherous. Beneath the surface, there are rocks everywhere that you only see at the very last moment (or perhaps not at all), and the current pushes us in all directions.
On arrival, we visit the camp at Raaf Olo, a simple spot right next to a babbling waterfall. Here you can have a picnic, rest or, in future, even spend the night in hammocks. At the next series of small waterfalls and rapids, we step out of the boat again. It’s quite a climb over the rocks, many of which are slippery with moss, algae and vegetation. Slipping, balancing and scrambling: it’s strenuous, but when I look around me, it really is beautiful here.
And as if that weren’t enough: on the rocks where we’re standing, there are petroglyphs – ancient rock carvings, made by who-knows-who. No one knows exactly who left them, when, or what they mean. What is clear, however, is that people once lived here who carved their stories into stone.
“ Here, in the heart of the jungle by the river, you realise just how special and vast nature can be ”
On to the next location – which requires a short (but warm) walk – we arrive at a breathtaking spot, tucked away deep in the jungle. The Amatopo team has set up camp here, surrounded by nature, next to a series of waterfalls and powerful rapids. And these aren’t just any old waterfalls: here, it’s grand, rugged and impressive. What makes this experience extra special is just how remote it is. No roads, no mobile reception, no other tourists – so few people have ever been here. And today, I’m one of them.
More jungle adventures
During my stay at Amatopo, I also go on a night-time boat trip. The silence of the jungle and the sounds of nature gradually fading away are truly impressive. Along the way, we spot a caiman swimming straight towards our boat, leaping out of the water and then disappearing again – a thrilling moment that highlights the magic of a night in the jungle.
I also went on a wonderful kayaking trip, during which I was able to fully experience the grandeur of the area. As I glided quietly through the water, I enjoyed the view of the jungle and kept a watchful eye on my surroundings in search of wildlife. It’s a different way to explore the jungle, and yet another unforgettable experience that has brought me closer to nature.
The end of an unforgettable adventure
After one last glance at the phenomenal view, it’s sadly time to leave the jungle behind me. Back at the airstrip, there’s no gate, no security check and no flight information boards – we simply wait amidst the greenery. I say goodbye to Jeroen and the Amatopo team, grateful for their hospitality and the extraordinary experiences they’ve made possible.
After another two hours or so of enjoying the view over endless jungle and winding rivers, I set foot in Paramaribo once more.
Take a trip through Suriname
Would you like to travel through Suriname yourself and set off on an adventure in this beautiful location? Please feel free to contact us for more information about the options available in Suriname or for a bespoke travel proposal. Call +31 73 610 62 04 or send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl.