Dia de Muertos
A public holiday that is often misunderstood
My visit to Mexico was all about something quite different: the plan was to travel to Tepoztlán, Puebla and Puerto Vallarta, to get to know the central part of this vast country. Unsuspecting, we found ourselves right in the middle of it all; we’d arrived in Mexico City at the end of October, and by the time we reached Tepoztlán, it was 1 November. We were sipping a delicious Aguas Frescas on a terrace when the church bells began to ring – and didn’t stop. ‘Hoy es Día de Muertos,’ said my guide, ‘today is the Day of the Dead.’ He must have seen the shock on my face, because he added with a laugh: ‘Here in Mexico, we honour those who are no longer with us, and we remember our loved ones.’ Intrigued, I asked for more details and was told the full story, which really moved me.
Offerings and celebrations
The celebration has its origins in an ancient Aztec festival honouring Mictecacihuatl, the goddess of the dead. The Spanish later added Catholic elements and meanings to it and moved the date to 2 November, All Souls’ Day. The commemoration begins on 31 October with the lighting of candles. On the night of the following day, people pray, make offerings in memory of the deceased, hold celebrations and, in some places, spend the night in the cemeteries (which explains the group of people we saw leaving the cemetery earlier that morning, all laughing). At the end of the celebration, family members enjoy all the food and drink they have prepared.
Funny anecdotes
On the Day of the Dead, 2 November, tradition holds that deceased loved ones return to be with their relatives and to enjoy together all the offerings made in their honour. For the living, it is an occasion for contemplation and prayer, for reflection on death. The mood during these festivities ranges from sombre to humorous, as family members reminisce about funny incidents and share anecdotes about their loved ones. As the celebration takes place just after Halloween, you might conclude that it is the same festival, but nothing could be further from the truth. Halloween has its origins in an ancient Celtic festival designed to scare away spirits, whilst the Mexicans actually welcome the spirits. I find the latter wonderful and so fitting for Latin American culture.
Dia de los Muertos involves a number of unique traditions. I’ve listed a few of them below:
-
Building an altar: this forms the centrepiece of the celebrations; according to tradition, it helps the spirits find their way back to the land of the living.
-
Offerings: typical offerings include candles, photographs, clothing and the deceased’s favourite food. But also: a packet of cigarettes or a shirt from their favourite football team
-
Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead): a sweet bread baked to be offered on the altar, and to be eaten as well
-
Catrinas: images of skeletons dressed in formal attire, which have their origins in a parody mocking a Mexican woman from the upper classes.
-
Calaveritas de Azúcar: sugar skulls, which have become the global symbol of the Day of the Dead. They’re on sale everywhere during the celebrations and, although they’re edible, they’re not usually eaten – think of your teeth! – but used as decorations
-
Skeletons and skulls: you’ll see plenty of these on the streets, often dancing or playing an instrument, to show that life after death is a happy one. The skulls (Calaveritas) recite short poems, with mocking and humorous content intended to highlight the peculiar habits or comical incidents in the life of the deceased
-
Cempasúchiles: Marigolds can be found everywhere during the festivities. The name ‘cempasúchiles’ comes from Nahuatl (the language of the Aztecs) and means ‘twenty flowers’, referring to the flower’s many petals. The flowers are in bloom at this very time of year and, it is said, their strong scent attracts the spirits returning to our world
-
The parade in Mexico City: a ‘tradition’ that originated thanks to none other than… James Bond. The director wanted to add some drama to the opening scene of the film Spectre and devised a full-scale parade and festival on the Zócalo, Mexico City’s central square. This parade is now held every year (watch the scene here) and is a real sight to behold if you happen to be in the capital at this time of year.
“ It is these rich traditions, amongst other things, that led to the Day of the Dead being included on UNESCO’s list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. ”
Would you like to experience Dia de los Muertos too? Ask us about the options. Every city has its own way of celebrating, and you’ll find different traditions everywhere. There are places where you can take part in the festivities yourself and mingle with the locals – it’s great fun!
For more information and travel ideas, please visit our Mexico webpage. We’d be happy to answer your questions and discuss the options with you. You can contact us by email at info@sapapanatravel.nl or by telephone on +31 73 610 62 04. We’re happy to help.