Kapawi Ecolodge, a heartwarming stay (2)
The next day will start early. We have to get up at 4 o’clock. We’re going to the home of Señor Hilario, one of the village elders, for a ceremony known as Wayusada. For this ceremony, it’s important to undergo a kind of inner purification ritual before sunrise.
Wayusada
In pitch darkness, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle, we paddle our canoe towards the village. Fortunately, we’ve brought torches and Chikuish knows the way. The tribal chief we’re going to visit is his brother-in-law. He explains to me that we’ll be introduced shortly and then offered a kind of herbal tea. This herbal tea is not to be confused with the hallucinogenic substance taken during Ayahuasca sessions. Nevertheless, the intention is that we drink as much of this brew as we can until we have to vomit. Naturally, travellers here are not obliged to take part. You can simply observe the ritual.
However, I decide to put it to the test and join in. I’m sitting with Chiquish, Richy – the other guide – and the village elder around a sort of pan containing the tea. We all have our own wooden bowls, which we use to scoop the warm herbal drink from the pot and then drink it. One by one, we reach the point where we start to retch. When I feel the urge coming on, I walk off into the darkness, just like the rest of them, and find a spot there to empty the contents of my stomach.
Until sunrise
One by one, we then return to the shaman’s house. Slowly but surely, the darkness gives way to the dawn. I feel really good, relaxed. We talk about the important things in life, asking Mr Hilario questions along the way. It is a special, almost spiritual experience, without the use of any sedatives or hallucinogenic substances. Once the sun has risen, we head back to the lodge for breakfast. On the way back, we pay a brief visit to Chikuish’s house. It turns out he has a family with nine children. The eldest, a girl, is currently studying in Puyo, whilst the youngest is barely a few months old. We are warmly greeted by his wife, who is just seeing the school-age children off.
After breakfast, we have a long canoe trip ahead of us.
We’re heading to another community called Tsekunta . This relatively new community, founded by Mr Francisco, has only recently started welcoming tourists. We’ll have a traditional lunch here, then head into the jungle in search of a small waterfall. The river trips are always a highlight. There’s plenty to see along the way. Much of the wildlife can be found along the riverbank and in the treetops at the river’s edge. For me, the time spent on the water flies by. Around midday, we arrive at the village. Here too, the centre of the hamlet consists of a landing strip.
Francisco
We are welcomed into Francisco’s home. The Achuar’s houses consist of large oval roofs on stilts, made from palm leaves. The houses have no walls and are therefore completely open. We are welcomed with chicha. Chicha is a kind of fermented maize drink. It is cooked in a large pot and, whenever there are guests, everyone is given a bowl of the drink. Francisco welcomes us, exchanging pleasantries with Chikuish in their language in a ritual manner. In effect, Francisco welcomes us and asks what we have come to do. Chikuish thanks him for his hospitality and explains the reason for our visit. As it’s in their language, I naturally don’t understand a word of it. The ritual lasts about 10 minutes and, even though I don’t understand what they’re saying, it’s quite impressive.
A refreshing dip in the waterfall
After lunch, we set off in our canoe to a patch of rainforest, where we take a walk to a small waterfall. It’s been a long time since anyone has been on this path, so we have to clear a path for ourselves with machetes. As we get closer, we can hear the soft roar of the water plunging down. After half an hour, we reach the waterfall and can reward ourselves with a refreshing dip in the clear water. Once we’ve recharged our batteries, we walk back to the river where our motorised canoe is waiting for us, and we begin our return journey to Kapawi, where we arrive as night falls.
The next day, we set off back to civilisation on time. Before our small plane arrives, Chiquish teaches me how to shoot with a blowpipe, the traditional hunting method used by the Achuar. Afterwards, we head back to the village where our small plane lands so that we can return to civilisation.
“ I only spent a short time at Kapawi, but my stay really touched me. ”
People here truly still live in harmony with nature.
They have a great deal of respect for their environment and for one another. Not only do they share their knowledge of the rainforest, but they’re also genuinely interested in me, which makes for a lovely exchange. A stay at the Kapawi Lodge isn’t for everyone. You have to get there by small plane, which means there’s a chance of delays as the plane has to land and take off from an unpaved runway, and flights may be postponed in the event of rain. There’s no hot running water and no air conditioning. But for people who are open to learning more about the Achuar culture – a wonderful indigenous people living deep in the Amazon rainforest – this is a unique experience. I feel privileged to have been their guest for a few days.
Request a travel proposal
Do you have any questions about a unique active holiday through Latin America, would you like a bespoke travel proposal, or would you like to arrange an appointment at our office? Please feel free to get in touch with us. Send an email to info@sapapanatravel.nl or call us on +31 73 610 62 04. We’d be happy to help.