Maní and the non-stinging Melipona bees of Yucatan
Just over an hour’s drive south of Mérida, the capital of the Mexican state of Yucatán, lies the picturesque town of Maní. On 18 October 2020, the town was awarded the title ‘Pueblo Mágico’ thanks to its historic church and beautiful colonial centre. The title ‘Pueblo Mágico’, which translates as ‘Magical Town’, is awarded to towns and villages in Mexico that possess distinctive cultural, historical or natural features and play an important role in tourism. Maní was granted this status due to its rich history and the charm of its colonial architecture and local traditions.
Panuches
On arriving in the town centre, we are warmly welcomed by our guide Andy, who then takes us to a small restaurant. Here we eat panuches with hibiscus juice and coffee. A panuche is a traditional Yucatecan dish. It consists of a deep-fried tortilla filled with black beans, usually topped with ingredients such as shredded chicken or turkey, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado and pickled red onion. The tortilla is first fried and then filled, after which the toppings are added. Panuches are often served with a spicy salsa, such as habanero, and are a popular street food, known for their rich flavour and hearty texture. Jamaica is the refreshing red juice from the hibiscus plant, which is known locally as ‘Jamaica’.
After treating ourselves to a delicious meal, we set off to visit Doña Elizabeth. This traditional Maya woman is going to tell us more about the indigenous Melipona bee. This species of bee does not sting and has been cultivated by the Maya for around 3,000 years. The bees are of paramount importance to the biodiversity of the tropical ecosystem in Yucatán through their pollination of native plant species.
Melipona bee culture
Doña Elizabeth welcomes us, dressed in a traditional white embroidered gown. She is one of the driving forces behind Meliponicultura y Cocinera Tradicional de Maní, a women’s initiative that introduces visitors to Maní to the traditional local cuisine and the unique culture of the Melipona bees.
After she has given us a brief introduction to the Melipona bees, we are invited to take part in a ceremony in which we thank the bees for allowing us to be in their presence; we must also ensure that our energy is on the same level as the bees’. For the Maya people, Melipona bees are more than just a species of bee; they hold deep cultural and spiritual significance. The bees are often associated with the gods and nature, and their honey plays a role in traditional rituals and ceremonies. It is said that Melipona bees can respond to people’s energy or intentions. According to the indigenous people, these bees can sense whether someone is radiating positive or negative energy. People with a calm, peaceful energy are said to be less likely to be disturbed by the bees, whilst people experiencing stress, anxiety or anger may, in fact, disturb the bees. It is believed that the bees have a spiritual connection with the gods and nature, enabling them to act as guardians of sacred spaces important to the Maya. The bees are said to be able to keep unwanted or undesirable energies at bay. In addition to their physical health benefits, Melipona bees are also associated with spiritual healing. The honey and propolis produced by these bees are used not only for their medicinal properties, but also in spiritual rituals aimed at purifying negative energies and promoting well-being.
The ceremony
During the ceremony, Doña Elizabeth uses a kind of incense. However, this is copal – a resin derived from certain indigenous tree species, which is somewhat comparable to the incense we are familiar with in Europe. The smoke from copal is used to connect with the spiritual world and to purify certain spaces or people. We are also given a sip of a traditionally distilled honey liqueur.
“ She tells us that the calmer you are, the more bees will stay on your hand ”
Getting up close with the bees
Now we’re ready to visit the bee colonies. We walk to a wooden shelter where the bee colonies are kept. The colonies are housed in wooden boxes. Doña Elizabeth takes the boxes apart so that the honeycombs and the bees are visible. She invites us to put our hands inside. The bees then crawl onto our hands and take away any negative thoughts and energies we may have. She tells us that the calmer you are, the more bees will stay on your hand.
She also lets us taste the honey from the various beehives. The bees produce a much smaller quantity of honey than our European bees, but the honey is much more concentrated and has a more intense flavour. We notice that the types of honey from different times of the year taste very different. This is because each season has its own plants and flowers that are in bloom at that time. These types of plants and flowers ultimately determine the flavour of the honey. Among other things, we tasted honey with a very strong citrus flavour and honey with a much more floral flavour. We were all impressed by this special experience and we would like to thank Doña Elizabeth very much.
Maní
Andy then takes us to the historic centre of Maní, where we begin our walk at the town’s distinctive monastery and church. Maní has a rich history dating back to pre-Columbian times. It was originally an important centre for the Maya civilisation. Following the Spanish conquest, Maní was officially founded as a Spanish settlement in 1541. Spanish Franciscan monks then began building the San Miguel Arcángel Monastery on the site of an ancient Mayan temple. The stones from the Mayan temple were used to construct the monastery, the church and the houses surrounding the central square.
The monastery was completed in 1549 and still forms the heart of the town. We take a stroll through the cobbled streets of the town centre and pop into the church, where an ancient mural was recently discovered behind the altar.
After the church, we walk on to a traditional house where Andy has his office, and where he tells visitors to Maní about the interesting sights in and around the village. The traditional house was once bought by his great-grandfather and the interior still dates from that time. You feel as though you’re in a time machine taking you back to a bygone era when Yucatán was one of the most prosperous regions in the world, thanks to the production of the natural fibre henequen, known in Europe as sisal.
Maní is one of the many charming little towns in Yucatán that are still largely overlooked by travellers, but which are more than worth a visit.
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