Undiscovered Yucatan, an untouched tropical paradise full of history (2)
Mérida
Around midday, I get back into my car and drive to Mérida. Mérida is the capital of the state of Yucatán. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico. It has a stunning historic centre with colourful buildings and a truly magnificent cathedral. A visit to the Paseo Montejo is highly recommended. The most beautiful mansions line this avenue. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Yucatán was considered one of the wealthiest regions on the Latin American continent. A great deal of money was made from henequen, a natural fibre from the agave plant, which was used to make rope, amongst other things, and was also commonly known as sisal. Agaves were cultivated throughout the state, leading to the emergence of many haciendas. These were the places where the landowners stayed when they visited their estates, and it was here that the natural fibres were extracted from the agave plant. However, the landowners spent most of their time in their mansions on the Paseo Montejo in Mérida, and the more they earned, the more magnificent their little palaces became. Fortunately, many of these buildings have been preserved and restored, so you can admire this splendour as you stroll along this main thoroughfare in Mérida.
Casa Lecanda
I’d actually been to Mérida a few years ago, but I noticed this time that a number of lovely restaurants, boutique hotels and bars have opened up since then. So this time, I popped into Casa Lecanda. This lovely boutique hotel has just seven rooms. It boasts a delightful courtyard garden with a pleasant swimming pool. The hotel is situated on Calle 47, a side street off the Paseo Montejo, where you’ll find plenty of good restaurants and charming little bars. I highly recommend the Oliva restaurant, and you should definitely pop into Catrín, a so-called ‘cantina’, where authentic Mexican dishes are served and where you can enjoy a delicious cocktail whilst surrounded by the beautiful paintings of Jacobo Roa. Through his artwork, this painter vividly brings Mexican culture to life. Outside the open-air section of the venue, there’s a huge mural, on which a spectacular light show is projected roughly every half hour.
Unspoilt nature
It’s certainly worth planning to spend at least a few days in Mérida whilst travelling through Mexico. It’s also a perfect base from which to explore the beautiful surrounding area. An hour and a half’s drive from the city lies the unspoilt Celestún Nature Reserve. This mangrove area is a paradise for birdwatchers. It is home to a huge colony of flamingos, as well as some 400 other species of migratory birds. The nature reserve is surrounded by idyllic beaches that are still largely undiscovered. Another must-visit is the historic harbour town of Sisal, just over an hour’s drive away. This was the port from which henequen was shipped to Europe, and because the export product was stamped with the town’s name, henequen is known in Europe primarily as ‘Sisal’. However, the town is still nothing more than a sleepy fishing village with a few historic buildings. This little place, too, is surrounded by beautiful beaches and natural scenery that has remained completely off the radar of the tourist crowds. Fortunately, there are no large-scale resorts here yet, just a handful of small-scale hotels. If you really want to treat yourself, then Club de Patos is the place to be. This beautiful, small-scale luxury resort is situated, surrounded by nature just outside the village of Sisal, right on the coast. The resort comprises nine spacious and extremely comfortable bungalows, all tastefully furnished, combining modern design with local elements in an attractive way. The restaurant is renowned for its delicious dishes, prepared almost exclusively with local produce. The resort is ideal for those who want to enjoy the coast, far away from the crowds. Birdwatchers will also be in their element here, and the coastal waters are considered one of the best kitesurfing spots in the world.
In this article, I’ve actually only touched on a few places, but I could write many more stories about all the special spots the state of Yucatán has to offer, which are still virtually unknown. As far as I’m concerned, it’s still a real undiscovered gem, which many travellers – who are specifically looking for authentic destinations far away from the crowds – are unfairly overlooking.
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