Suriname, a special journey
My grandfather is from Suriname; he grew up in the Maroon village of Kwattahede on the Saramacca River. As a child, I never really gave it much thought, but the older I got, the more interested I became in this side of my heritage. I used to see my grandfather regularly in the Netherlands, but I could never quite picture what his life was like, or that of the rest of my family in Suriname. Now, after all these years, the time had finally come. I travelled to Suriname with my mum. It was her third time there, and my first. A special journey to share with my mum.
Family and discovery
This trip wasn’t just about visiting family, of course, but also about discovering this beautiful country. After a nine-hour flight, I look out of the window and see green – lots of green. It couldn’t be otherwise; around 85 per cent of the country is Amazon rainforest. My aunts gave us a warm welcome and we spent the first few days in the Wanica district, near Lelydorp. Here, I got a glimpse into daily life. The first thing I noticed was that most people have a large plot of land where they grow plenty of their own fruit and vegetables. Most houses are also built on a sort of concrete stilts. Upon asking, I learnt that this is to catch the breeze; by living up high, you benefit from a gentle breeze which is very welcome in these tropical temperatures.
A melting pot of cultures
What also strikes me straight away is that almost every supermarket has a Chinese name. This immediately highlights the melting pot of cultures in Suriname. Descendants of Chinese, Javanese, Hindustani, Jewish, Dutch, the indigenous population and many others all live here in harmony with one another. This is also clearly evident in Paramaribo: it’s not at all unusual here to see a mosque, a church and a synagogue standing side by side in harmony.
On our first evening, we immediately enjoy an authentic Surinamese roti – a great start to this journey of discovery.
For delicious Surinamese-Javanese specialities, head to the Blauwgrond district in Paramaribo, but as we’re still in Wanica, we’re off to Lelydorp. Here too, you’ll find a number of good little eateries near the Central Market. Don’t be put off by appearances: it may look simple (a few small kitchens in a square steel structure), but the food is delicious!
Frederiksdorp
After a few days with family, it was time to see more of Suriname. Our driver, Ruud, picked us up and took us to Mariënburg Pier. We had a pleasant chat – one of the advantages of Suriname: because everyone here speaks Dutch, it’s very easy to strike up a conversation. Once at Mariënburg Pier, we took a boat across to Frederiksdorp, a former plantation on the Commewijne River. We immediately feel as though we’ve stepped back in time: the wooden former officers’ quarters, fully restored, form the heart of the Frederiksdorp plantation resort. We’re given a warm welcome and told about the various activities planned for us. Together with our guide Rebecca, we draw up a plan for the coming days, and then it’s time to relax for a while.However, the relaxation is short-lived; today’s programme includes a historical walk with Rebecca, during which she tells us more about the history of Frederiksdorp.
An impressive slice of history
In 1747, the Frederiksdorp plantation was established as a coffee plantation by Johan Friedrich Knöffel. By 1775, around 200 slaves were working on the plantation. Many of them attempted to escape, often without success. The problem was that they had few options. Some tried to swim across the river, hoping to find freedom on the other side, but on the opposite bank of the Commewijne River they ended up on another plantation. A map from 1840 shows the vast number of plantations in Suriname: around that year, Suriname had no fewer than 956 plantations. According to the official census, Frederiksdorp had 141 slaves at that time, but in reality there were many more. Seeing the map showing all the plantations and the scale of slavery makes a deep impression on us. It is hard to imagine what it was like in those days, but this historical walk sheds a great deal of light on the matter. After the abolition of slavery, contract labourers continued to work here, mainly from British India and Java. Consequently, the villages around the Commewijne River are today home mainly to Hindustani-Surinamese and Javanese-Surinamese people. As well as coffee, the Frederiksdorp plantation also grew cocoa for a short time. In 1976, Frederiksdorp was taken over by Mr Hagemeijer, and around the turn of the century they decided to strike out in a new direction and focus on tourism as well as agriculture.
Plenty to see and do
As well as the historical city walk, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy here. At the end of the afternoon, we board the boat and set off in search of the pink river dolphin. Of course, you never know if you’ll be lucky, and your patience may be put to the test. We head towards the river’s mouth and, in the distance, I see something briefly break the surface. We quickly move closer and I catch a glimpse of a snout. Suddenly, to the left of the boat, I see a dolphin break the surface and move towards our boat at speed. It briefly brushes against the side and darts beneath us. Not long after, we’re in luck again: several dolphins make an appearance.
The next day, we head off with our guide to the village of Johan and Margaretha. And, being Dutch after all, we decide to do this by bike. After a short cycle, we arrive in the village and pass the primary school. A little further on, we’re already in the centre of the village. There’s a sort of covered square, where all the celebrations for which Johan and Margaretha are famous take place. They regularly have something to celebrate, and people even come over by boat from the other side to join in the festivities. On the way back, we’re caught in a tropical downpour, but the cooling relief it brings is actually quite welcome. Unfortunately, our stay in Frederiksdorp is already over after just three days, but I can conclude that this place is definitely worth a visit during a trip of Suriname.
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