Undiscovered Yucatan, an untouched tropical paradise full of history (1)
When most people think of Yucatán, they think of the Yucatán Peninsula, and in particular Cancún, Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya. In fact, they are referring to the Mexican state of Quintana Roo. This is the area with the massive beach resorts, and travellers seeking a more authentic experience often give Yucatán a miss as a result. However, when it comes to the state of Yucatán – whose capital is the beautiful historic city of Mérida – this is completely unjustified. In fact, this region remains largely undiscovered and has a great deal to offer even the most discerning traveller.
Espita
I’m flying direct to Cancún with KLM. During our winter months, our national airline operates direct flights to the capital of Quintana Roo several times a week. After arriving, I pick up my rental car and set off for the state of Yucatán. Having left the city behind, I drive through a flat, green tropical landscape. As dusk begins to fall, I leave the motorway and spend the last three quarters of an hour driving along a small but well-surfaced country road. I pass the village of Temozon, where I once visited the beautiful hacienda of the same name, and then I take the turn-off towards Espita.
Casa Kacaya
Until recently, I’d never even heard of this little village. By chance, my attention was drawn to Casa Kacaya, a small boutique hotel situated in this village. I understood that the village has a historic town centre, but even my Mexican contacts knew very little else about it.
After the sun had set, I drove into the town. The town centre consists of brightly coloured historic buildings. There is a lively atmosphere around the small central squares in the well-lit streets. Casa Kacaya is situated two blocks from the town centre, home to the historic church. I park the car and step inside the small hotel. What a lovely place. The front building is the original structure as it was built in the19th century, but has been completely renovated. The authentic features, such as the walls and the wooden beams on the ceiling, have been preserved and combined with contemporary design. I immediately feel at home and am warmly welcomed by Alva, the hotel manager. She is enthusiastic and keen to show me around the hotel – and not only that, she offers to take me on a short walk through Espita so that I can get to know the village.
Pueblo Mágico
First, I head to my room, which I reach after a short stroll through the lush, beautifully lit courtyard garden with its inviting swimming pool. Casa Kacaya has six spacious rooms. In my room, I find two queen-size beds, plenty of space for my luggage and a lovely bathroom overlooking my private patio, which has a small seating area and a hammock.
After leaving my luggage in my room and freshening up, I set off with Alva for an evening stroll through the village. In the little park in the centre, I spot a couple in love sitting on a bench. A few children are running around with a balloon, and at a food stall, some people are chatting about their day. Alva tells me that Espita became a so-called ‘Pueblo Mágico’ last summer. Pueblos Mágicos are distinctive villages and towns, with an attractive historic centre, which have played an important role in Mexican history. There are just over 100 such places in Mexico, and since the summer of 2023, the village of Espita has also been included among them. The village was already a Maya community before the Spaniards arrived. After the conquistadors had taken control of Yucatán, the town as we know it today was founded in 1549. In the centre, there are many buildings from times long past. Some of these have been restored to their former glory, transformed into tasteful villas, trendy boutique hotels, coffee shops and restaurants. But I also see several buildings that are still in a state of disrepair, overgrown by the tropical vegetation that surrounds the town. There’s a wonderful Mexican/Caribbean atmosphere. We have a stroll through the narrow streets and little squares and pop into the little church before returning to the little oasis that Casa Kacaya is, in my eyes. The chef has prepared some delicious tacos, which I tuck into before crawling into bed, tired but satisfied.
Cenotes
The next morning, after a delicious breakfast of chilaquiles with salsa verde – a breakfast not to be missed that anyone visiting Mexico simply must try at least once – Alva invites me for another trip of Espita. This time we set off in what’s known as a motorbike taxi. These are a sort of motorised cargo tricycle with a small roof, so they can carry four passengers. We head just outside the village to explore. Alva has heard about a cenote that we could visit. It turns out, however, that the estate on which the cenote is supposed to be located has been sold, so we are unable to visit the site. Cenotes are only found in the state of Yucatán. In Yucatán, you don’t see any rivers, as they flow underground. In many places across this Mexican state, you can find large holes containing a water source which, it seems, are connected to these underground rivers. These so-called cenotes form natural swimming pools that lie much lower than the earth’s surface. Some are very well known and are often visited by large coachloads of tourists. But as there are many thousands of them, there are also very secluded cenotes, often situated on private land. It is therefore quite possible to visit a cenote where you are completely on your own. Read more about this in our blog ‘The five most beautiful cenotes in Yucatán’.
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